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How color circuit grades work

Plenty of gyms grade boulders by color instead of by number. Purple is the sixth step at one gym and the third at another. Here's how circuits work, and how Ascent shows your progress on them without ever turning a color into a number.

A climber pulls between colored holds and volumes on an overhanging bouldering wall.

A circuit is a range, not a grade

In a circuit, every climb of one color sits inside the same band of difficulty. The band is usually two or three grades wide, and neighboring bands often overlap, so the hardest blue can be harder than the easiest yellow. Setters pick the color for how a climb fits the band, not for one exact number (Climbing Business Journal).

Gyms choose circuits on purpose. Camp5 says its color scale frees you to try routes within your potential, and lists the grade of each route separately for anyone who wants it (Camp5). Portside Boulders in Perth overlaps its colors so you pick climbs out of curiosity rather than for a number (Portside).

The cost is training. When every purple counts the same, it's hard to tell whether you're improving inside a band, and the same setters' article names that as a circuit's weak spot.

Camp5's colors, easiest first

  • Pinkabout VB to V1
  • Blueabout V0 to V2
  • Yellowabout V1 to V3
  • Orangeabout V2 to V4
  • Greenabout V3 to V5
  • Purpleabout V4 to V6
  • Redabout V5 to V7
  • Blackabout V6 to V8+

Same color, different place

There's no shared color code. Each gym ranks its own colors, so the same tape means something different from gym to gym. Pick a color to see where it sits at five gyms on three continents.

Camp5 Malaysia, 8 colors

  1. Pink
  2. Blue
  3. Yellow
  4. Orange
  5. Green
  6. Purple
  7. Red
  8. Black

boulder+ Singapore, 7 colors

  1. White
  2. Yellow
  3. Red
  4. Blue
  5. Purple
  6. Green
  7. Pink

Urban Climb Australia, 8 colors

  1. Yellow
  2. Blue
  3. Purple
  4. Green
  5. Orange
  6. Red
  7. Black
  8. White

Mesa Rim San Diego, US, 6 colors

  1. Green
  2. Blue
  3. Yellow
  4. Red
  5. Purple
  6. Black

The Front Utah, US, 6 colors

  1. Yellow
  2. Blue
  3. Green
  4. Pink
  5. Red
  6. Black

Why Ascent never converts a color

A color covers a range, so turning it into one number would invent a precision the gym never gave. Calling every Camp5 purple a V5 would be wrong for the purples that are V4 and the ones that are V6, and it would hide the progress you make inside the band.

So in Ascent a color gym ranks its own colors, from the easiest to the hardest, and a climb's grade is its place in that gym's list. It always shows as the color, never as a number, and no two gyms' colors are ever compared. The same rule holds for every scale: numbered gyms share one 1 to 15 scale with a softer or harder offset per gym, while V, French, Font and kyu and dan grades each keep their own.

How your progress still shows

  • A normal color per gym. Ascent suggests it from the middle of what you've sent there over the last 28 days, and you can change it. Your normal is the line every climb is weighed against.
  • Load. Each try counts more above your normal and less below it. One step between colors counts as 2.5 grade steps, because each Camp5 color spans about three V grades. The formula is on the training load page.
  • Firsts. Your first send of a color at a gym earns a medal, "First Purple", with the gym's name on it.
  • Progress. Progress can show one color gym's own colors, so a month of purples and your first red read as what they are.

Your normal color

Purple

Camp5, suggested from your sends over the last 28 days. A red is one step above it.

Adding a color gym to Ascent

  1. If your gym is on Ascent's gym list, pick it when you first set up the app and its colors come with it. Otherwise open Settings, then Gyms and boards, and tap Add gym.
  2. Name the gym and choose the color tags scale. A new gym starts from Camp5's eight colors.
  3. Put the colors in your gym's order, easiest at the top. Move them up or down, remove the ones it doesn't use, and add any of the nine hold colors it does. A gym needs at least two.
  4. If the gym later reorders its circuit, move the colors to match. Your past climbs are re-ranked to the new order; a color you've logged climbs on can't be removed.

Gyms already on Ascent's list with color circuits include Camp5 in Malaysia, boulder+, Climba and Kinetics in Singapore, The Bouldering Hive in Manila, BlocHaus, Urban Climb and Portside Boulders in Australia, and Mesa Rim and The Front in the US.

Sources

  1. Why circuit-style grading is good for businessClimbing Business Journal: what a circuit is, its range, overlap and labeling, and where circuits make training harder.
  2. Camp5: Climb first, grades? Later!Camp5 on its color scale, and where it lists each route's grade (theroutelist.com).
  3. Portside Boulders: our setting and grading philosophyA gym that overlaps its grading colors on purpose.
  4. boulder+ at Aperiaboulder+ color order.
  5. Urban Climb: first time hereUrban Climb color order.
  6. Mesa Rim: Mesa sessionsMesa Rim color order.
  7. The Front Climbing Club: DOT gradingThe Front's bouldering dot colors.

Any gym, any board, any scale.

Ascent is a bouldering log for iPhone that answers one question: am I actually improving? No account, and your log is one file on your phone.

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